James Bercovici - The Big Red Wine Company

Domaine des Sept Chemins Crozes-Hermitage 2003 Rouge. Having Chinese food tonight (a few starters plus the obligatory CDP - crispy duck pancakes, as opposed to Ch â teauneuf-du-Pape!) and for some reason I had a yearning for a red Crozes. Not the most obvious partner and when it came to it I let my head overrule this and I had a bottle of Budwar instead with the starters. With the duck I took charge and sipped at the Syrah. Not the perfect match but certainly not wrong. Those Asian spices you often find in Northern Rhône Syrah must have done their job. Duck aside, really quite a good wine which got better as the bottle was drained - it's all too rare to find good Syrah under £15-£20 let alone under a tenner.

Domaine Brusset , Gigondas 2003 "Le Grand Montmirail". Very young for Gigondas but Laurent Brusset always makes quite forward wines which can go the distance. And, of course, 2003 was very hot so acidity levels are naturally lower and the fruit that bit riper so, potential over-ripeness or dumb-ness aside, I was expecting something I could drink (I haven't tasted this wine for several months so anything could have happened although Brusset's wines don't generally shut down; the 1999 did though). A good, very tasty modern-style Gigondas: lots of fruit, big and heady, unmistakeably Gigondas but tannins not too forceful so ready to drink at only three years old. made me want to dig out some of the older vintages I have lurking around here somewhere. More please.