James Bercovici - The Big Red Wine Company

Ten wines at the Canterbury tasting: the Domaine des Anges 2005 Blanc showed very well. Crisp, fruity and refreshing - as always, a welcome alternative to all the Chardonnays and Sauvignons without being too off the wall. The Domaine de Mourchon "Tradition" seemed a little too young this time but the other 2005s, both from Rasteau - Domaine Bressy-Masson' s "Paul-Emile" and Domaine des Côteaux des Travers ' "Prestige" - were both surprisingly forward and delicious. The former has already put on a little weight revealing some lovely ripe fruit, slightly Burgundian in character but at the Grand Cru rather than Village level (and only a tenner!); the Prestige has some well-judged oak supporting the sweet, red/black fruit. These two Rasteaus, both at £10 show just how good this village has become at putting out top drawer wines at affordable (dinner party) prices and both these wines can be drunk now or aged a few years if this is wanted. By contrast,...

In advance of my now annual (for as long as they'll have me) tasting in Canterbury (this Thursday), I wanted to re-taste the Perrin Rasteau "L'Andéol" from the 2004 vintage. I don't usually include the Perrin wines as they are technically negociant wines but I want to focus on 2004 and 2005 with the emphasis away from Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The wine is almost pure Grenache, or so I believe, and clearly old-vine with concentration and texture like this. The nose is quite perfumed - not sure how to describe it - but the palate reveals some oak lurking in the background and tannins sitting alongside. Masses of fruit here but my instinct is to lay it down a while longer. It will make an interesting contrast to the 2005 Rasteau wines I am going to show on Thursday which are more forward and also to the other Villages wines.