At almost ten years' old, it was to be hoped that, at last, this classic Barolo would be fit to drink. I can't remember how long ago the last bottle was opened but that certainly wasn't ready with tannins effectively masking the fruit. That's all to be expected, of course. This is Barolo, of course, but not just any Barolo. It's from the classic, backward, ultra long-lived 2006 vintage and wines from parts of La Morra (Roggeri is another sub-zone to be included in this generalisation) were fantastically tannic. Abrasion in youth can, of course, mellow if the upbringing is handled well.
Now the wine tells a different story. From the outset, the nose is more revealing. Classic Nebbiolo aromas but, finally, rich and giving. This all follows through to the palate where the tannins are undeniable but no longer bullying the fruit into submission.
A review from 2012 reads: "This elegant Barolo delivers both intensity and complexity thanks to its pure berry aromas and tones of cola, white licorice, tar, wet river stone, dried herb and cedar wood. Power and firm tannins suggest this wine would be best consumed 10 years from now." (Wine Enthusiast). I'm not sure about white licorice or river stone having never smelt these, let alone tasted them, but that's not a bad description.
The next question is, am I brave enough to crack open a 2006 Roggeri from Crissante Alessandria?
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