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Christmas with Burgundy

In the country in July but, thanks to a processing error, Justin Girardin's wines - the first we have imported since he went solo (earlier vintages were bottled under his father Jacques' name) - have only just become available to us. Obviously we tasted them months ago but, equally obviously, we wanted to taste them again. They're good.


Earlier in the year, the 2019 'Terrasses de Bievaux' Santenay Blanc was slightly masked by oak but this has dissipated now to reveal a gorgeously fresh with citrus and tropical fruits abounding. The 2018 Premier Cru reds have fleshed out nicely and can be enjoyed already; the 2017 is more focussed. Why wait?

However, the big event took place over the last 48 hours: tasting four red Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru wines from the excellent 2019 vintage. Most people understandably think of white wines when Chassagne is mentioned but, in fact, the terroir is best suited to red wines which can be very good indeed.

The 2019 Clos St Jean is vibrantly fruity with gentle but definite tannins. Sweet but the juicy fruit has a delightful sourness about it. On day 2 the wine had softened, still youthful but more together and rounded.

The 2019 Boudriotte is more reserved and tannic. Quite peppery fruit. On day 2 the fruit was more pronounced with black fruits emerging. Tannins were still quite dominant but it's a gentle giant. And a keeper.

La Maltroie 2019 is more concentrated on the nose and, again, has blacker fruit character. Very complex with more tobacco and oak evident. On day 2, it has become very together although it still needs time, of course. A very complete wine with a smoky finish.

I have more experience of Morgeot 2019 (and Morgeot in general but, then, it's the largest of the Premier Cru vineyards). It is more mellow and integrated (but still young) with big, rounded fruit and fairly soft tannins. It's the most forward of the four by far, reinforced on day 2 when it was extremely drinkable with lots going on.

Inevitably expensive, these will be offered alongside the 2020 Joblot wines in mixed cases early next year. They are highly recommended.

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