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The roaring twenties - Joblot's reds from the bottle

Tasting young wines can be tricky but, perhaps, the hardest to assess are red Burgundies. One grape (Pinot Noir, of course) and subtly but importantly different terroirs yielding surprisingly different wines, even when from the same clones of more or less the same age. Enter Domaine Joblot's 2020s.

Givry is at the southernmost point of the Côte Chalonnaise, about half an hour south of Beaune. It is not one of the prettiest villages in the region but it is widely regarded as producing the finest reds in this (relatively) good value sector of Burgundy. Domaine Joblot is 'a leader in Givry' (Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy) or, simply, 'Givry's best estate' (Clive Coates MW, The Wines of Burgundy). It lies on the D981 with most if the vineyards (and all the premier cru wines) on the west side of the road. In Domaine Joblot's portfolio, only the village (ie. non-premier cru) 'Pied de Chaume' is on the east side of the road, north of the village itself. They also have village land in 'Veau', just west of the strip of premier cru vineyards (see next paragraph), in which they have only Chardonnay vines. 

The four red wine premier cru vineyards which the Joblots have a stake in (they own no monopoles) are in a line just outside the village itself just to the north of the 'Clos Salomon' monopole (this is another very good estate but quantities are extremely limited here) with (from south to north), 'Les Bois Chevaux', 'Grand Marole' (or 'Clos Marolle' or 'Clos Grand Marole'  but bottled by the Joblots as 'Clos Marole') which generally swamps up 'Petit Marole', then 'Cellier aux Moines' and, finally, adjacent to the east, 'Servoisine' (also planted by the Joblots with Chardonnay). The special cuvée, 'L'Empreinte', is a blend of the four premier cru wines.

Phew!

Given the vines are the same clones and more or less the same age, it would be reasonable to expect the different bottlings to be close to identical. Not so. We have been tasting this range for more than two decades and importing them for more than one (we don't like to rush in) and there are clearly identifiable differences which crop up time and again. The following notes show (I hope) that this is an excellent set of wines which will generally improve well with age (my recommendations are for my palate and are, inevitably, subject to change). I'm looking forward to rediscovering them in a couple of years or so.

See the full range from Domaine Joblot

Givry 2020 'Preface'

Initially a little tight on the nose but pretty Pinot fruit shines through the gaps. Not overly sweet and a little tart at first, tempered by a touch of oak and quite forward. The fruit dominates, as it should. Good depth for a village wine. On subsequent days, the nose filled out and the wine became softer with the tartness subsiding, a good sign. From 2025.

Givry Premier Cru 2020 'Bois Chevaux'

A fuller nose and much richer palate than Preface. Zingy and more textured. Still quite sharp but the tannins and mouthfeel balance this well. It needs a little time to flesh out a little and mesh together. Ends a little short at first but on day two it evolved into a soft and juicy wine with smoother and slightly jammier fruit and a longer finish, the tartness having all but disappeared. From 2024.

Givry Premier Cru 2020 'Clos Marole'

Deeper fruit and more structured than Bois Chevaux with fuller and denser, blacker fruit on the palate. This is classic sour black cherry Pinot in quite an intense style thanks to perky acidity. This will go on and on. From 2026.

Givry Premier Cru 2020 'Cellier aux Moines'

A very different nose to the previous wine, richer, creamier and more complexity. Quite soft though with some soft tannin backing things up. Earthy tones and black pepper. Rounded and smooth. too drinkable already. From 2024.

Givry Premier Cru 2020 'Servoisine'

Usually the most powerful of the set (with Cellier aux Moines the most elegant), this 2020 is tight and angular, tannic and quite acidic with lots of black pepper and spice. The fruit profile is certainly powerful. This wine needs plenty of time but it's big, ageworthy and majestic. From 2027.

Givry Premier Cru 2020 'Empreintes'

The melange is soft and rich at the same time. The tannins so prevalent in Clos Marole and Servoisine are well tamed by the softer fruit of Bois Chevaux and Cellier aux Moines. This will benefit from ageing which will bring to the fore all the characteristics of the four component parts whilst forging them together but it's all too drinkable now. From 2024.

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