Friday, 28 November 2014

2013 Burgundy: Joblot and Lienhardt, first taste from the bottle

First impression: they used not only the same label designer but the same design. It doesn't matter, of course. Actually it lends a certain elegance to the set of eight bottles I have lined up in front of me.

Second observation: every wine is just 13% ABV. OK, so that's neither high nor low for Burgundy but still very welcome these days.

Now the wines: in what order? The Givrys first or the Cotes de Nuits wines? I think that's probably right so, starting with Domaine Joblot, I will try them in this order: Pied au Chaume, Cellier aux Moines, Clos de la Servoisine. Then, Antoine Lienhardt's Essards, Plantes au Bois, Vignottes and, finally, the NSG Charmois.

It's going to be a long night!

Domaine Joblot, Givry 2013 Pied de Chaume 
The entry-level wine from Jean-Marc Joblot and his daughter, Juliette, is light and bright on the (youthful) nose. The palate is more expressive with sweet red fruits. Fairly approachable now, it will be better in another year or two (but that's not a problem: there is still a little 2010 and some 2011 in stock!).

Domaine Joblot, Givry Premier Cru 2013 Cellier aux Moines
Deeper colour and a richer, fuller nose with slightly blacker fruit. The oak is quite pronounced on the palate but this will fade. Quite candy flavoured, with a great finish, this needs a little time to integrate so that the sweetness of the fruit gives way to the more savoury notes currently lurking in the background.

Domaine Joblot, Givry Premier Cru 2013 Clos de la Servoisine
Similar to the Cellier aux Moines in many ways but, perhaps, a little more together and complete at this stage and a little more structured. I would like to re-visit this in five or six years' time!

Antoine Lienhardt, Cote de Nuits Villages 2013 Les Essards
The first of Antoine and Juliette's wines has a slightly muted nose and surprisingly feminine palate but the backbone is undeniably Cote de Nuits. The fruit is more red than black and the oak will play an excellent supporting role when it is more integrated.

Antoine Lienhardt, Cote de Nuits Villages 2013 Les Plantes au Bois
Vibrant raspberry fruit - almost a coulis. Good weight and concentration. Excellent potential.

Antoine Lienhardt, Cote de Nuits Villages 2013 Aux Vignottes
The most complete of the trio: less raspberry, more subtle. Very good.

Antoine Lienhardt, Nuits St Georges 2013 Les Charmois
This clearly needs time to soften at the edges but the fruit, structure, balance etc are all superb. This is going to be a great wine.

An impressive haul. If these estates' wines are anything to go by, 2013 looks like a vintage to check out further (just as long as prices don't go crazy).

More later!