James Bercovici - The Big Red Wine Company

This is a blend of 50% Grenache from the Southern Rhone (Meridionale) and 50% Syrah from the North (Septionale) - it is the French names for the two regions that give their initials to the name of this wine (and not, as I originally wondered, Syrah and Mourvedre). Xavier has learnt to be coy about his sources - the previous incarnation of this wine, Sacrilege, landed him in all sorts of trouble when Parker reviewed it and announced to anyone who cared to know that this was a blend of Cote Rotie Syrah and Chateauneuf Grenache. 'So what?' you might ask. Well, for some reason known only to themselves, the appellation authorities in Chateauneuf-du-Pape do not allow their Grenache to be down-graded so, if you don't want to market your wine as Chateauneuf-du-Pape then mere Vin de France it must be. Not do in other appellations it seems (since this new blend is designated as Cotes du Rhone). I did suggest to Xavier that if he sourced the Grenache from Gigondas, for example, he...

Nearly six months on from my last tasting of Joblot's 2011 Clos Marole and Bois Cheveaux, when both wines were un-giving and restrained (not at all what I expected from the vintage at this stage, even from a serious producer like Joblot), I have re-tasted both these wines and I am pleased to report that the tannins are much more under control and the fruit, especially in Clos Marole, is singing. Lovely Pinots for the medium term.

Decanter's April edition features a review of the Southern Rhone. Raymond Usseglio 's Cuvee Imperiale scored 95 points, beating Clos des Papes (93) and Domaine de la Mordoree (91) amongst others. Sorry, I shouldn't gloat but the truth is that, whilst some enthusiasts can't see past these and other names, Stef Usseglio has been churning out remarkably consistent wines of extremely high quality for years. Here's what James Lawther MW had to say: 'Big and powerful but long and harmonious at the same time. Impressive depth snd volume of fruit. Texture smooth and refined. Solid but discreet tannic frame.' 95/100. And a nice note on Domaine Brusset 's 'Lauren B' Cotes du Rhone: 'Punches above its weight. Long, sinewy and vibrant rather than broad and full. Elegant berry fruit and spice notes. Finely honed tannins.' 90/100.

The Decanter review of 2010 Barolo includes a good number of wines at £30+, £40+, even £50+. There are even a couple for £75 (and I just spotted one for £140!). I am sure they are very good but I am unlikely ever to taste them at those prices. Of course, given land prices, there is such a thing as too cheap Barolo (I saw some in a shop recently for £12. I bought a bottle: it was dreadful) so what is a good starting point? I think, on the whole, around £25 should buy you a decent wine. In the 'Highly Recommended' section fo the review (wines scoring at least 90 points), only four or five wines (out of 71) are in this ball park and the top scoring of these is... Filippo Broccardo e Figli, Monforte d'Alba 2010 'Pristine and pretty aromas and flavours of red cherry, flint, citrus peel and white stone fruit. Fleshy palate with full, savoury flavours and hints of smoke and cedar. Good balance with a harmonious finish'. Drink 2020-2035. 91/100 or 17.5/20 It's i...

With the 2010s from Domaine Joblot all but finished, I thought a tasting of the 2011s advisable. The Cellier aux Moines was tasted shortly before Christmas (excellent fruit, quite tannic so needs an hour or so to breathe - hmmm) and there is so little of Servoisine left there was no point in trying this now so I have just popped corks on the other two Premier Cru reds from this superb estate. First impressions: slightly muted on the nose, especially the Bois Chevaux. Both wines (I am also tasting the Clos Marole) are remarkably tannic for the vintage in Givry and this is having the effect of masking the fruit a little. That said, the Bois Chevaux has a remarkable texture and the fruit of the Clos Marole is clearly good. I need to give them a little more time to open up... Looking back on my notes from nearly two years ago, I see I should have re-read them before pulling corks! Bois Chevaux reads: ' Firmer than other crus, Bois Chevaux' ethereal character will come to the fo...

First impression: they used not only the same label designer but the same design. It doesn't matter, of course. Actually it lends a certain elegance to the set of eight bottles I have lined up in front of me. Second observation: every wine is just 13% ABV. OK, so that's neither high nor low for Burgundy but still very welcome these days. Now the wines: in what order? The Givrys first or the Cotes de Nuits wines? I think that's probably right so, starting with Domaine Joblot , I will try them in this order: Pied au Chaume, Cellier aux Moines, Clos de la Servoisine. Then, Antoine Lienhardt 's Essards, Plantes au Bois, Vignottes and, finally, the NSG Charmois. It's going to be a long night! Domaine Joblot, Givry 2013 Pied de Chaume  The entry-level wine from Jean-Marc Joblot and his daughter, Juliette, is light and bright on the (youthful) nose. The palate is more expressive with sweet red fruits. Fairly approachable now, it will be better in another year o...

In this month's Decanter, an expert's choice of wines from Piemonte includes Fabrizio Battaglino 's 2011 Roero Sergentin : "Smooth and juicy. Hints of oaky spices and vanilla complement rich and cherry, tarry tannins and fresh herbal nuances. A serious wine that's still young." 90/100 (Ian d'Agata, Decanter) The only issue I would take is that I have enjoyed a few bottles of this already so what does that say about me? Since the review came out, I have undertaken a thorough review of my own, tasting the three vintages of Fabrizio's Roero Sergentin I have in stock. For me, this is a wine that has got better with every passing vintage: the 2011 is young but approachable and has all the hallmarks of a fine Nebbiolo. More in tune with Barolo than earlier vintages with some oak in support but the lovely Nebbiolo fruit dominant. Moderately tannic, this will be better still in another couple of years or so. The 2010 is an altogether different win...