James Bercovici - The Big Red Wine Company

Clive Coates MW is not generally known for his enthusiasm for wines of the Cote Chalonnaise. However, in an article published in the September issue of Decanter, he writes 'The area has much going for it. Most importantly, the wines are very good value for money'. I would go a step further in proclaiming that, in the wines of Domaine Joblot , at least, the wines are extremely classy and should not be seen as lesser Burgundies. Yes, the money side of things is important for most of us so the question, where else in Burgundy can you buy this quality at these prices is pertinent but of the Joblot brothers and, perhaps, a handful of others there are wines available with fruit and structures that put too many Cote d'Or wines to shame. Last year, Andrew Jefford reviewed Joblot's 'Cellier aux Moines' in the FT but admitted he could have chosen almost any wine from the estate. Now, Coates says of the (too young to drink at present) 2013 Servoisine : 'Ripe, sub...

Disclaimer: this is not intended as a party political post. Does a government which goes back on a manifesto pledge (which may have helped it win a considerable number of votes, after all) still have a mandate to govern? Is this behaviour one of the (many) reasons why so many people who start adult life fired up about politics become so disillusioned with it by their forties? Frankly, I am surprised that it is young people who are joining the Labour party to vote for Jeremy Corbyn - I would expect more of my generation to be inclined to hand over their £3 (which, after all, is less than the price of a pint, let alone a decent glass of wine) to put the wind up the establishment. It's been a quiet day - too much admin. I'll stop now.

Domaine de la Charite 's 100% Mourvedre cuvee 'Dame Noire' from the excellent 2007 vintage is beginning to show well at last. Typical of the variety, it has taken seven or eight years to get past 'muted' and start revealing plenty of sweet black fruit character. Next stop leather! I realise that, having been very quiet on the blogosphere of late, I never triumphed the wines of Poggio al Gello in Tuscany! Very remiss, especially asthat one of the wines has sold out already. On a recommendation, I agreed to receive samples from the estate (I know it sounds odd, 'agreeing' to samples but so much of what people want to send promises so little that I have to say no - my house is only so big after all). That was a year ago and, tasting the wines then, I found the 2010 Rosso good but, perhaps a little underwhelming, and the 2011 Pugnitello exciting but, probably, uncommercial. Fortunately for me, them and you, there were two bottles of each wine so I re-tasted...

This is a blend of 50% Grenache from the Southern Rhone (Meridionale) and 50% Syrah from the North (Septionale) - it is the French names for the two regions that give their initials to the name of this wine (and not, as I originally wondered, Syrah and Mourvedre). Xavier has learnt to be coy about his sources - the previous incarnation of this wine, Sacrilege, landed him in all sorts of trouble when Parker reviewed it and announced to anyone who cared to know that this was a blend of Cote Rotie Syrah and Chateauneuf Grenache. 'So what?' you might ask. Well, for some reason known only to themselves, the appellation authorities in Chateauneuf-du-Pape do not allow their Grenache to be down-graded so, if you don't want to market your wine as Chateauneuf-du-Pape then mere Vin de France it must be. Not do in other appellations it seems (since this new blend is designated as Cotes du Rhone). I did suggest to Xavier that if he sourced the Grenache from Gigondas, for example, he...

Nearly six months on from my last tasting of Joblot's 2011 Clos Marole and Bois Cheveaux, when both wines were un-giving and restrained (not at all what I expected from the vintage at this stage, even from a serious producer like Joblot), I have re-tasted both these wines and I am pleased to report that the tannins are much more under control and the fruit, especially in Clos Marole, is singing. Lovely Pinots for the medium term.

Decanter's April edition features a review of the Southern Rhone. Raymond Usseglio 's Cuvee Imperiale scored 95 points, beating Clos des Papes (93) and Domaine de la Mordoree (91) amongst others. Sorry, I shouldn't gloat but the truth is that, whilst some enthusiasts can't see past these and other names, Stef Usseglio has been churning out remarkably consistent wines of extremely high quality for years. Here's what James Lawther MW had to say: 'Big and powerful but long and harmonious at the same time. Impressive depth snd volume of fruit. Texture smooth and refined. Solid but discreet tannic frame.' 95/100. And a nice note on Domaine Brusset 's 'Lauren B' Cotes du Rhone: 'Punches above its weight. Long, sinewy and vibrant rather than broad and full. Elegant berry fruit and spice notes. Finely honed tannins.' 90/100.

The Decanter review of 2010 Barolo includes a good number of wines at £30+, £40+, even £50+. There are even a couple for £75 (and I just spotted one for £140!). I am sure they are very good but I am unlikely ever to taste them at those prices. Of course, given land prices, there is such a thing as too cheap Barolo (I saw some in a shop recently for £12. I bought a bottle: it was dreadful) so what is a good starting point? I think, on the whole, around £25 should buy you a decent wine. In the 'Highly Recommended' section fo the review (wines scoring at least 90 points), only four or five wines (out of 71) are in this ball park and the top scoring of these is... Filippo Broccardo e Figli, Monforte d'Alba 2010 'Pristine and pretty aromas and flavours of red cherry, flint, citrus peel and white stone fruit. Fleshy palate with full, savoury flavours and hints of smoke and cedar. Good balance with a harmonious finish'. Drink 2020-2035. 91/100 or 17.5/20 It's i...