Friday, 9 June 2017

2006 revisited in Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Jancis Robinson has revisited 2006 Chateauneuf-du-Pape making two of our wines her Wines of the Week. She writes:

'I was reminded of how well the 2006 Châteauneufs are showing now when tasting a couple currently on offer from The Big Red Wine Company in the UK. I opened Raymond Usseglio 2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape (£24.50, 14.5% alcohol on the label) at the same time as Domaine de Cristia 2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape (£23, 15%) and enjoyed how they played tag in the glass. At first the Raymond Usseglio wine was the more impressive – much denser and richer – but then the Cristia came up on the outside lane and overtook it, offering more elegance and staying power, despite the alcohol level, and making the Usseglio look a little grainy and tired after an hour or so.

'But the main message is that this vintage of Châteauneuf is drinking very well at the moment and, for serious, ageworthy wines that have had almost 10 years in bottle, they are not desperately expensive.'
2008 review: Blackish crimson. Meaty molasses notes from what is obviously a very concentrated cocktail. One of the spiciest, most arresting noses among these 2006 regular bottlings. Big boned with a hint of yeast extract/Marmite. Serious, lots of effort in here. Still some drying tannins on the finish. Very serious wine. 18- Drink 2015-27
2017 review: Lively ruby. Strong garrigue aromas. Very rich and warm. Sweet start with freshness on the finish initially and good fruit concentration in the middle. In the glass it became heavier and heavier and lost its refreshment value. 16.5 Drink to 2023

Our tip: enjoy this wine over half an hour or so after opening!

2008 review: Thick and dense with an element of stewed fruit about it. Pretty good but lacks a little bit of zip. Lots of pleasure if not too expensive, though I do wonder whether it wasn't picked just a little bit too late? Grenache with an admixture representing just 10%. 17.5 Drink 2015-27

2008 review: An odd metallic note on the nose. Quite feral notes(10% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah plus Grenache) and masses of drying tannins on the finish. Some heat on the finish too. BIG! But for the moment it's a little formless. Bit of a hole in the middle. 16 Drink 2014-20

2017 review: Medium ruby. Big and round with tannins well in retreat. Rich tamarind flavours. In the glass it looked fresher and fresher. Admirable purity considering the alcohol level. This vintage is showing very well currently.  16.5 Drink to 2025

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