James Bercovici - The Big Red Wine Company

I hadn't tasted this since the en primeur  tastings back in 2010 so, the wine having arrived at last, I wanted to see how the 2009 Vinsobres "Les Cornuds" has turned out. Rather good, actually, although this was never really in doubt. Lovely black fruit (with a hint of red) and the inevitable tar/ garrigue /herb characters too. Most important, you can drink this now although it will soften and round out over the next year or so and drink well for at least five years.

Having finally finalised my order with Mauro Manzone (of Giovanni Manzone), I have done what I always do, albeit a couple of hours early: cracked open a bottle. This one is the 2006 Barolo Le Gramolere in Monforte d'Alba. This site tends to give medium-bodied but luscious wines and this is no exception. The reason for opening it so early is that I feared it would be a typical 2006, overloaded with tannins. Yes, the tannins are noticeable but they will soften in the couple of hours or so between now and my (wholly inappropriate) dinner and they don't get in the way of the sweet cherry/berry fruit and liquorice/tar characters. This wine has the ethereal quality that I want from a fine Nebbiolo. It doesn't disappoint.

Peter McCombie MW seems to like the wines of Baglio del Cristo di Campobello in the Italy 2012 supplement to Decanter - well, who can blame him? The more basic cuvees have lots to offer but it is the two prestige wines that really excite. Lu Patri 2008 : "Wide range of red and black fruit flavours, plenty of freshness and some grip; really a food wine. Very well made, will age and improve" 18/20 Lusira 2008 : "Quite ripe and berryish Syrah with nice richness and palate weight. Well crafted with smooth tannins" 17.5/20

A bit late in the day to update this but they are as follows: 26th November - Barton Mills 3rd December - Norwich Please get in touch if you want to come along and I will let you know times and locations!

I gave in to the pressure from Piedmont (actually the pressure all came from me: I couldn't hold out any longer!) and have wines from Crissante Alessandria and Filippo Gallino en route (what's the Italian for "en route"?) Alberto Alessandria 's family makes some superb Baroli. I was particularly struck by the 2007 Galina which seems quite modern in style but I think that has more to do with the vintage. Also, I was intrigued by his 2006 Roggeri, a typically tannic example but with some superb fruit. It needs time. However, in some ways, the star of the tasting was his 2007 Barbera  "Ruge", an astonishingly complete wine (I have never tasted Barbera like this before, hence it being the star wine for me) with superb ripeness and low (for Barbera) acidity. Filippo Gallino is head of a family based in Roero, just across the Tanaro River from Barbaresco, and the third main region for Nebbiolo based wines. However, it was their 2009 Barbera which came acr...

We arrived at the Lido at around 7pm ostensibly to help get things ready but everything was under control. It was good to finally meet Birger who was there with the winemakers, Enrico Nada and Fabrizio Battaglino who were accompanied by Alberto Alessandria. This was very welcome as Alberto had sent me a box of his wines to try when the shipment arrived for tomorrow's dinner (I admitted to Enrico and Fabrizio that I thought Alberto's Barbera even better than theirs - but, then, it retails for over £20 so it should be!). There were ten on our table so it was always going to be lively. Enrico and Fabrizio introduced the wines, bringing a touch of live theatre to the evening. Two whites to start, quite different but both very good. Which went better with the wild mushrooms on sourdough toast? Probably the Roero tonight but if they had been creamier, then I think the Langhe Bianco would have taken the prize. With the main course of osso buco with mashed potato and spinach, I was...

I have never been tempted by offers of membership of the IOD (Institute of Directors) in the past (although, as a sole trader, this wouldn't apply to BRW) but on arrival there yesterday afternoon, I understood why some find it hard to resist. I saw only the restaurant area but it is a luxurious setting with paintings bigger than most houses' walls. We had been allocated a generous space for tasting wines and enjoying them with dinner afterwards. I don't think any of us realised, though, that 30 wines in an hour with a bit of socialising was never going to happen. I started with good intentions. I began with the whites: first Fabrizio Battaglino's Roero Arneis then the equivalent wine from Filippo Gallino followed by Nada Giuseppe's Langhe Bianco. The first two were quite similar in style (as was to be expected): very precise and well-defined whereas the Nada has another layer thanks to the blend with Sauvignon and Favorita. Not necessarily any better but different...